Cultural Appropriation or Cultural Appreciation?

During our time here in India, we have seen a variety of people both native and foreign. In most cases, the locals have been clothed in traditional wear, whether that be a sari, choli, turban, or kurta. Occasionally, our class encountered a group who were obviously tourists such as ourselves. Some of the tourists were seen wearing the same clothes as the locals. Are these instances considered cultural appropriation? Or are they simply an example of foreigners showing appreciation for the Indian culture through their manner of dress? These are difficult questions with no clear and immediate answer.

Cultural appropriation is described in the Oxford Dictionary as “the taking over of creative or artistic forms, themes, or practices by one cultural group from another.” Appropriation generally occurs at the expense of a minority cultural which is of a lower complex regarding social, political, military, or economic status and typically ensues without a complete understanding or desire to discover the origin of the culture’s practice. This results in important cultural aspects of dress, practices, and beliefs being converted into meaningless “pop-culture fads” or used as entertainment for the viewing pleasure of the imitating culture group.

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(Supermodel Heidi Klum dressed as the Hindi goddess, Kali, for Halloween. Photo taken from CNN)

On the contrary, cultural appreciation is learning of another culture’s significant artifacts with respect and dignity. It is learning to value the origins of the culture’s practices and having an intrinsic desire to further discover and uplift the opinions and voices of an oppressed culture.

Visiting the Taj Mahal, our class encountered many similar student groups from across the globe. Some looked to be of Caucasian descent but were clothed in embellished cholis, full skirts, and saris. Could this be an example of cultural appropriation? Given the context and location of the encounter, the class and I did not interpret it in this way. Though, The Meaning of Dress, looks at how one dresses themselves as “powerful because it communicates who one is and who one is not,” I found that in them dresses in cultural clothing as a way to communicate a desire for learning more about the Indian culture—starting first with its manner of dress. Seeing as the other students were wearing the cultural clothing at the Taj Mahal, it could be inferred that the students did have a general longing to appreciate India’s architect and clothing. Another interpretation of the encounter can be traced to my preexisting Western beliefs and connotation revolving around the term appropriation. In my eyes and coming from an American background, any form of taking elements from another cultural for social gain or approval is seen as problematic because it reinforces imperialism and can lead to racism. However, from an Indian local’s point of view, they can just as easily view this action as a form of flattery and a foreigner’s take on the country’s beautiful textiles and craftsmanship. Lastly, these traditional garments could have been worn out of support and aspiration to outreach and display to others, India’s rich culture, and fabric.

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Seeing the other Caucasian student groups sporting the Indian cultural clothing, I was intially taken aback. My initial thought was that the clothing was being misused and handled inappropriately. However, upon further reflection, and in seeing how the natives responded to the student groups, I was able to form a more articulate and positive attitude on the matter.

Works Cited

Lynch, A., & Strauss, M. D. (2015). Ethnic dress in the United States: a cultural encyclopedia. Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield.

Miller-Spillman, K. A., Reilly, A. H., Hunt-Hurst, P., & Damhorst, M. L. (2012). The Meanings of Dress. New York: Fairchild Books, Inc. Retrieved January 14, 2017.

Agra and the Taj Mahal

After leaving Delhi, our next destination was Agra. Today’s excursions included a visit to the picturesque Taj Mahal, followed by the beautiful Agra Fort, and ended in a presentation at the Agra Marble Emporium nearby our hotel.

The Taj Mahal is the world’s most iconic symbol of love. Dedicated to Mumtaj Mahal, Mughal emperor Shahjahan built it after his beloved wife’s death plunged him into an unshakeable grief. The massive mausoleum is made of imported white marble and is masterfully constructed with the intention of preserving its beauty, an effort that required over 15,000 artisans. Mumtaj’s tomb lies directly in the center of the Taj Mahal garden and is in perfect symmetry. The only disruption in this symmetrical design is Shahjahan himself who was placed next to his wife after his death. Visitors from all over the world were present at this historical site, trying to get a glimpse of one of the seven wonders of the modern world. Visitors were also allowed into the Taj Mahal to observe Mumtaj’s tomb. We were told to refrain from taking photographs and to cover our shoes to respect the sanctity of Mumtaj’s tomb. With so many people packed in the mausoleum’s tiny space, the noise of foreign tongues and the sharp sound of the guards warning whistles filled the air. Some visitors were seen throwing bangles and coins at Mumtaj’s tomb, which could be interpreted in many different ways. Having visitors from all over the world and from different cultural backgrounds could suggest different explanations for their actions including the beliefs of longevity, supporting Mumtaj into the afterlife, or that water would spew out from the tomb if one threw the bangle correctly.

Next on the agenda was Agra Fort. Only a few miles away, Agra Fort served as a summer palace for Shahjahan and the royal family. With several palaces encased in the fort, it was apparent that it was once a heavily guarded structure, designed to offer both protection and comfort. Learning about the various components of the fort was fascinating. Visitors would have to bypass four entry ways which were in zigzag formation to enter the palace. At any given position, guards from the fort’s watch towers would be able to view anyone who passes by any of the gates which would help in distinguishing trespassers from visitors. Another interesting component of the fort were the interconnected canals and fountains placed all over the fort which would help the royal family stay cool and comfortable in the summer heat of Agra.

Our last stop included an impromptu trip to a marble workshop located just beyond our hotel. We observed local artisans demonstrating how the stone is shaped using methods unchanged since the creation of the Taj Mahal. It takes a skilled artisan about four hours to produce a small flower motif that they then paste onto the pristine white marble. We ended our day’s adventure with a bit of shopping at the Marble Emporium, which sold the same crafted marble creations that were demonstrated to us earlier.

Today’s excursions included experiences which I knew our class would cherish for a lifetime. My favorite part was visiting the Taj Mahal, though I would have preferred visiting on a weekday where the crowds would be less overwhelming. There was a lot of history and beauty to be absorbed in today’s tours and demonstrations, experiences I feel fortunate to have. Judging by the smiles and gasps at each of our destinations today, it would be safe to say that everyone had a singular and educational experience in the lovely city of Agra.

The Effect of Globalization on India’s Beauty Standards

Beauty standards are universal, yet paradoxically, they are never consistent, and India is no exception. India’s beauty standards are constantly changing, and what is considered ideal for the modern Indian woman is different than what was found to be beautiful half a century ago. Using traditional art and marriage advertisements as resources, the ideal Indian woman was of medium complexion, had an hourglass figure, large eyes, full red lips, and long black hair. This image has persisted for centuries, yet recently it has begun to change. The modern Indian woman strives to be clear and fair complected, with long dark hair, and a hairless body. Additionally, the modern Indian woman aspires to be slim, though the desire for large breasts and hips has not changed from traditional ideals. These beauty ideals are imperative to Indian culture because they determine how Indians behave, how they self-identify, what products they buy, and how those products are sold. Modern beauty standards emphasize changing what you are not happy with, and that means sales of beauty products have significantly increased in India. Items such as hair dyes, hair removal products, weight loss supplements, and skin whitening creams are selling now more than ever. It is also important to know that the beauty standard is just one aspect of the ideal Indian woman. Behaviorally speaking, the Indian woman is expected to be chaste and modest, however; modern Indian women are now beginning to rebel against this ideal. It is possible that changes to beauty standards and behavior can be attributed to western influence and globalization, which is why it is important to have an understanding of Indian culture, especially as it relates to appearance and behavior. Understanding how western culture has influenced India, for better or for worse, will make this trip a richer experience.

Maxim June/july Cover
Image A: Bollywood idol, Priyanka Chopra, grazes the cover of the June/July issue of Maxim India. The cover photo caused a social media storm as she exposed a hair and crease-free armpit.Source: Saglimbeni, Nick. “Maxim June/July Cover.” Maxim. June/July 2016.
White Perfect
Image B: This L’oreal advertisement markets a product that claims to have 90% success rate for achieving a fairer complexion. Skin whitening creams are commonly found in India, some even on the shelves of supermarkets.Source: L’oreal. (2009). White Perfect [Advertisement]. Retrieved from https://uqinindia.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/india_s-whitening-cream-is-it-a-fair-deal-for-women-2.jpg
Standing Parvati
Image C: Parvati, the Hindu Goddess of Love and Fertility, represented the exaggeration of ideal beauty standards during the Chola Period (ca. 860-1279) in Southern India.
Source: Standing Parvati [Painting found in Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York]. (880). Retrieved December 30, 2016, from http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/57.51.3/

Works Cited:

Cohen, M. (2007, September 28). India’s New Beauty Ideal Is a Wisp of Its Former Self. Retrieved December 30, 2016, from http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB119093749514441990

Gelles, R. (2011). Fair and Lovely: Standards of Beauty, Globalization, and the Modern Indian Woman. Independent Study Project Collection. Retrieved December 28, 2016, from http://digitalcollections.sit.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2143&context=isp_collection

Li, E., Min, H., & Belk, R. (2008). Skin Lightening and Beauty in Four Asian Cultures. Association for Consumer Research,35, 444-449. Retrieved December 29, 2016, from http://www.acrwebsite.org/volumes/v35/naacr_vol35_273.pdf